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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Maňas
By hand crack. Rock Climbing
5
Prašivka
From SE via the crack to the summit Rock Climbing
7
Pulec
Along the right edge of the plateau wall over the overhang to the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sypká
Up the left part of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pulec
With a high step into the hollow, left to the ledge and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pulec
From the hollow directly along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pulec
Through the middle of the valley wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zpěvačka
From the ledge to the right, a short crack in the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7
Quakerská jehla
Via the wide chimney to the ring (added) left beyond the edge and through the holes to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Šourkova věž
Through the chimney with an overhanging entrance to the balcony. Through the passage into… Rock Climbing
?
Šourkova věž
Along the edge to the right of the route "Left Face", ring. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sestroňovická věž
In the left edge of the south face via a small corner, higher up the wall from the right… Rock Climbing
4
Sestroňovická věž
From the north to the right false summit, directly through the center of the north… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rovné skály
In the left part of the W face, to the left of the large block, up the small pinnacle to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rovné skály
Up the center of the W face over 3 K to the ledge, right over the overhang and up the… Rock Climbing
11
Vráček
In the right part of the wall from the slope, either traverse from the right or up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zimní věž (Samaritánka)
Through the corner crack from the N under the overhang (protection), step right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zimní věž (Samaritánka)
Through the brittle wall under the overhang (slings), then further above the overhang … Rock Climbing
7
Šourkova věž
Through the corner crack (hourglass) into the chimney (hourglass), through it and higher… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šourkova věž
Left of "Byzantine C." left to the edge and along it, higher up the wall straight over… Rock Climbing
3
Kuhnova skalka
With the edge diagonally left. Rock Climbing
2
Zimní věž (Samaritánka)
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif by bridging and left onto the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zimní věž (Samaritánka)
From the platform in the left valley side wall to the ring. Up into the hole and right… Rock Climbing
3
Kuhnova skalka
Along the right upper edge. Rock Climbing
6
Zimní věž (Samaritánka)
Through the right part of the valley wall directly to the ring of the "S edge". Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Skalní dóm
From the cave, up the right wall to the ring and then up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Skalní dóm
*** CAUTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Skalní dóm
From the SE face to the ring. With a falcon (small rock feature) to the ledge, from the… Rock Climbing
4
Skalní dóm
Middle of the S wall to the pine tree, from there left and to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Kapusťák
Via the chimney from the plateau side. Rock Climbing

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