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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Pláž
In the right part of the valley wall directly to the 1st K. First right, then back left… Rock Climbing
6-
Vechtr
From the chimney in the left part of the valley wall to the edge and to the 1st K. Along… Rock Climbing
4-
Mariánka
From the gully between Mariánka and Zpěvačka, up the narrowing chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kartářka
From the gully between Kartářka and Zpěvačka, briefly up the chimney and traverse left to… Rock Climbing
6-
Vechtr
In the valley wall, a prominent curved crack under the overhang to K and over the… Rock Climbing
7
Holden
From the North along the edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Hadovka
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věžička
Along the edge over the ring and the hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Nízká věž
Via the SE face. Rock Climbing
5+
Vechtr
To the right of the Život štvance (Life of an Outcast) route, up the corner to below the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vechtr
To the right of the valley edge, up the wall to the 1st K. Along the edge to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing
4-
Mariánka
Up the corner chimney from the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Mariánka
Up the valley wall to the crack, through it over the 1st K to the ramps and directly up… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zpěvačka
In the lower part of the gully between Zpěvačka and Mariánka, up the wall to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing
5+
Zpěvačka
From the East edge below the overhang, through the overhanging crack to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Rovné skály
In the S face, a short crack transitioning into a wider crack and up the face to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Komáří masív
Up the crack in the left part of the E face (slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Komáří masív
Up the center of the E face to K and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vertikální stage
Through the crack in the middle of the S face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Quaker
1
Quaker
Up the east wall to the saddle of the tower. Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří masív
To the right of the Oak route, right to K and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Komáří masív
From the E corner, traverse right around the edge to K, up the face to the crack and up… Rock Climbing
6
Malá frýdštejnská
Up the east face using eyelets to the ring and along the rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rovné skály
Start via the 'Eliška loves wilderness' route and further up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Komáří masív
From the All Souls' Tower, step over to the edge of the Mosquito Massif and up the edge… Rock Climbing
4
Bezděčínská věž
Through the north chimney between the summits. Rock Climbing
4+
Jogín
From the NE side up the chimney and step across into the wall to K. Diagonally right to… Rock Climbing
6
Nenitověž
To the right of the Klapzuba's Lager route, up the wall over 2 K to the summit. 26. Landa… Rock Climbing
4+
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
To the right of the Fast Frog route, up the wall to K and right up the corner to the… Rock Climbing

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