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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4
Bezděčínská věž
From the valley through the chimney that divides both summits. Rock Climbing
6-
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
To the left of the Quick Awakening route, up the corner, higher up the wall over K to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Plynárna
In the right part of the massif, over an overhang and up the wall over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Janebova věž
From the 2nd ring along the edge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Kočičí stěna
To the left of the Kitaróni route up the wall to the 1st and 2nd bolt. Slightly right to… Rock Climbing
5
Spící mnich
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Kaskády
From the large terrace on the valley side, up the wall at the W edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Balustráda
On the plateau side, the starting block collapsed, making Stará cesta (Old Route) and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Bezděčínská věž
Through the chimney to a ledge, right through the center of the wall to the ridge. Rock Climbing
2+
Jogín
From the plateau side up the wall and through the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jogín
To the right of the valley edge, up the wall over shelves to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Jogín
Up the sharp valley edge (sling) to K and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
To the right of the Quaker's Pearl, first up the wall left, then right over K to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník)
To the left of the "My Golden Antlers" route in the side wall through a crack and higher… Rock Climbing
2+
Plynárna
To the left of the route 'Propane', up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Geront
In the right part of the massif, up the wall into a crack and through it over the ring to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Průvan
Opposite the Geront massif, via the overhanging edge of the pillar over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Průvan
Along the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Kočičí stěna
To the left of the prominent corner in the left part of the massif, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kočičí stěna
To the right of Kotě Tower along the West edge via 2 bolts to the crack and further along… Rock Climbing
2
Bezděčínská věž
At the highest point of the north face diagonally right along ledges to the eastern… Rock Climbing
6-
Kočičí stěna
From the starting ledge of Shopping Fever directly over the overhang into the wall and… Rock Climbing
2
Trojitá věž
Through the chimney and with an upward thrust to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Studený průchod
Opposite the Kašlava crack, a wide crack to K. Further, a wide crack or hand crack to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Studený průchod
After entering the Cold Passage from the E side, right into the chimney and then via K to… Rock Climbing
2+
Studený průchod
To the right of the 'Around Rages Heat' route, deeper in the chimney by stemming and… Rock Climbing
3
Kaskády
In the left part of the valley wall, by wide crack to the large terrace. Rock Climbing
4-
Kaskády
To the right of the 'Hiker's Crack', up the wall over K to the large terrace. Rock Climbing
4-
Kaskády
In the center of the valley wall, by crack below the rappel to the large terrace and by… Rock Climbing
4+
Kaskády
To the right of the 'Molehill' route, up the wall from the left above the overhang into… Rock Climbing

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