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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Mnich
From the second ring, right beyond the edge into the west face and up the west gullies… Rock Climbing
8
Mnich
From the second ring via the left crack. Rock Climbing
7
Mnich
From the north left beyond the northeast edge and along it to the balcony in the left… Rock Climbing Spare Route
6-
Mnich
Up the North face to the ledge, diagonally right (ring), up the crack and right to the… Rock Climbing
7
Mnich
Via the left crack to the balcony on the NW edge. Right into the West face, via the gully… Rock Climbing
8
Mnich
Up the North face directly to the first ring, right into the notch and to the second ring… Rock Climbing
8
Mnich
Via the west right crack over the ring. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Mnich
Along the northwest edge to the ring, diagonally left to the ring of the North Straight… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Mnich
From the Great Capuchin to a small balcony below the south plateau. Rock Climbing
8
Mnich
Via the notch to the right of Arag's Route along the southwest edge to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing
6
Mnich
To the right of the west crack via the sloping small wall to the first ring, right to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Mnich
From the 1st ring of Arag's Route, via the crack to the 2nd ring. Up the wall and via a…
5
Mnich
From the south via the chimney between the Monk and the Great Capuchin to a small balcony… Rock Climbing
4
Mnich
Via the lower left variation, along the ledge left into the south face to the platform… Rock Climbing
4
Mnich
Via the sloping ledge in the north face of the Great Capuchin and traverse into the south… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Mnich
Via the 'South Route' on the Great Capuchin to a small balcony on the NE edge. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Mnich
Up the middle of the south face over two rings to the second ring of the 'Airmen's Route'. Rock Climbing
3
Mnich
From the bench left and up the widening chimney to the pulpit. Descend into the chimney…
6-
Mnich
To the right of Aragova Cesta (Arag's Route) over the ring right into the chimney,… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mnich
From the southeast edge diagonally left up the south face to the ring, then a stance and…
2
Mnich
Up the middle of the East face via the chimney to the ledge (left), into the right… Rock Climbing
6-
Mnich
From the pulpit diagonally upwards via the overhanging crack.
7
Orel
From the opening into the inner chimney, higher via the crack up the wall over two rings. Rock Climbing
6
Orel
From the second window via a small crack (ring) along the small cracks. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Orel
From the 'Path to the Sun' ring, up the wall to the right to the gully and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Orel
From the northeast edge to a small balcony, via the crack over the ledge, through two… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Orel
(Route in memory of Honza Viduna.) Up the North face to the left of 'Path to the Sun' via…
7/7+
Orel
Along the NW edge over the overhang to the 1st ring. Along the edge over 4 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Orel
Via the crack in the north face to the 'hours' (hourglass/thread-throughs), left to the… Rock Climbing
8
Orel
Via the crack, diagonally right over the 'hours' (hourglass/thread-throughs) to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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