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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
Přeskok
Želvička
From the balcony of the Great Capuchin to the summit.
4
Želvička
Rock Climbing
6
Želva
From the chimney between the Turtle and the Great Capuchin to the northeast edge and into… Rock Climbing
3
Želvička
Rock Climbing
7
Želvička
Up the edge, directly or traverse along the ledge to the right to the summit.
Přeskok
Želva
From the Great Capuchin. Rock Climbing
1
Želvička
Through the chimney and along the northwest edge. Rock Climbing
6
Želva
Up the wall (ring) to the ring of the “Southwest Route” and left up the wall to the…
7-/7
Želva
Through the right part of the north face over the first and second ring, diagonally right…
6
Želva
Along the west edge over the ring. Rock Climbing
7
Želva
From the chimney between the Turtle and the Great Capuchin via the south face left to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Želva
Through the middle of the north face under the overhang, diagonally right to the ring and… Rock Climbing
4
Želva
Through the chimney between the Turtle and the Great Capuchin to the platform below the… Rock Climbing
8
Želva
Via the Old Route for 3m and left over 3Q to the pillar. Old Route without aid to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velký kapucín
Through the left part of the south face under the crack, up it over the ring. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Velký kapucín
From the ring directly via the small pillar and up the wall (ring) to the summit.
6
Velký kapucín
Left of the southeast edge directly through the crack and up the wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Velký kapucín
Via the left small pillar in the right part of the S face to the balcony, right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velký kapucín
Through the crack in the right part of the north face to the platform and along the west… Rock Climbing
7
Velký kapucín
In the right part of the south face via small pillars diagonally left and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Velký kapucín
Along the west edge to the summit.
5
Velký kapucín
From the platform through the chimney to the balcony on the NE edge and up the east face…
6-
Velký kapucín
From the balcony in the north face left of the Old Route
6
Velký kapucín
Through the chimney to the balcony. Left along the wall to the ring and along the fragile…
2
Velký kapucín
Through the chimney between the Great Capuchin and the Turtle to the platform left behind… Rock Climbing
6-
Mnich
From the first ring, right to the second ring of the 'Cold Route'. Rock Climbing
7
Mnich
Via the 'Old Route' below the first 'horse' (rock feature), right into the gully and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Mnich
To the right of the east chimney and over the overhang to the balcony on the northeast… Rock Climbing
7
Mnich
From the north left beyond the northeast edge and along it to the balcony in the left… Rock Climbing Spare Route
9/9+
Mnich
Over the first ring of the 'Inquisition Route' to the right and via the small gully to… Rock Climbing

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