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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8
Drážďanská věž
Along the southwest ridge for five meters, left into a crack and to the second ring of… Rock Climbing
10
Drážďanská věž
From the second ring directly to the third ring and straight up past another ring.
8
Drážďanská věž
From the 2nd ring on the “Whip” route traverse to the 2nd ring on the “Sewing Machine”…
9
Drážďanská věž
Along the southwest ridge to the first ring, left by the south face to the second ring,… Rock Climbing
6-
Drážďanská věž
Through the middle of the south face via a ridgelet to the first ring, by a crack turning… Rock Climbing
9+
Drážďanská věž
8/8+
Drážďanská věž
Right of Bič (Whip) by a ridgelet to the ring, diagonally right to the second ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Drážďanská věž
By the face right into the “Sewing Machine” directly past five rings upwards. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Drážďanská věž
From the 1st ring of the "Mr. Smart" route directly by the face and right to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Drážďanská věž
By the right part of the south wall via small cracks to the first ring, to the ledge,…
6
Drážďanská věž
From the corner crack directly up by crack over the overhang and variously. Rock Climbing
6-
Drážďanská věž
By a prominent crack in the south face and diagonally left by the face to the first ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Drážďanská věž
Left of Hokejka (Hockey Stick) by a crack and left by the face to the ring, left to the… Rock Climbing
3
Drážďanská věž
From the ring left and further traverse into the constricted chimney, by it to the ledge… Rock Climbing
6-
Drážďanská věž
From the southeast edge by ledge left into the corner in the south wall, through it,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Drážďanská věž
From the east by chimney to the ring, by crack over the overhang to the balcony and by… Rock Climbing
3
Drážďanská věž
From the ring left and by wall to the balcony. Rock Climbing
6
Drážďanská věž
From the right to the edge (1st ring), along it to the ledge (2nd ring), right by crack…
3
Baldachýn
5
Baldachýn
3
Baldachýn
9
Baldachýn
Same as American Dream but after 3m of the initial dihedral, right over 4 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Baldachýn
From the NW via the wall into an overgrown gully and up it to the summit.
9
Baldachýn
To the left via the wall from American Dream, over 4 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Baldachýn
Via the dihedral crack in the center of the North face to the left to the ring, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Baldachýn
From the bolt of the American Dream route, arc right over two rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Trpaslík
Přeskok
Trpaslík
From Severka. Rock Climbing
6
Trpaslík
Rock Climbing
6-
Sarkofág
Through the left part of the north face via a crack to the ring and up the wall. Rock Climbing

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