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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Trpaslík
Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sarkofág
Jump from the summit of Trpaslík (Dwarf)
2
Trpaslík
Along the southeast edge. Rock Climbing
8
Sarkofág
Through the middle of the wall over two rings to the "Neighbor's Path" ring and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Sarkofág
Rock Climbing
7
Sarkofág
Via the south face through the crack to the southwest edge and along it. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sarkofág
Up the NW face to the ring, higher along the N edge to the ledge, then right to the W…
6
Sarkofág
From the southeast edge diagonally right and up the east face. Rock Climbing
9
Šašek
Up the right part of the valley face (two rings), right to the northwest edge and along… Rock Climbing
6
Šašek
To the left of the Requiem route, up a small wall over a ring. Rock Climbing
9
Šašek
Along the northwest edge to the ring. Along the edge left to the sling and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Páže
From the valley via a chimney into a small cave (sling), through a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing
1
Šašek
Along the southeast edge. Rock Climbing
4
Šašek
Along the southwest edge, higher up along the west edge. Rock Climbing
2
Šašek
Up the middle of the south face n. v.
6-
Páže
From the valley up the right part of the north face to the right onto a ledge on the west… Rock Climbing
6
Páže
Up the left part of the south face via a chimney (ring), through a crack over a ledge… Rock Climbing
6-
Páže
Start like West Edge, directly via a crack to the first and second rings, from the right… Rock Climbing
4
Páže
Right through the notch in the south face to the balcony and up the old route n. v.
6-
Páže
4m up the south corner, left via a chimney and crack to K. over the overhang to an open…
7/7+
Malý zbrojnoš
Up the wall (ring) directly to the ring of the "Little Bobeš" route
6-
Malý zbrojnoš
Along the edge (ring) directly to the summit.
7-/7
Malý zbrojnoš
From the start of the "Southwest Route" from the right to the ring and directly to the…
2
Páže
along the northeast edge from the plateau. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malý zbrojnoš
From the saddle left to a sloping ledge, then hand-traverse to the NE edge and to the…
6-
Malý zbrojnoš
Via the valley crack between the Small and Great Armorer (two hours) to the saddle and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Malý zbrojnoš
From the southeast edge traverse in the east face to the ring (or directly up the wall),… Rock Climbing
7
Malý zbrojnoš
From the saddle directly up the wall (ring).
7
Malý zbrojnoš
From the valley via a corner crack to the ring, diagonally right and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
7
Malý zbrojnoš
To the right of Indian Summer from the valley via a chimney to the plateau and by the… Rock Climbing

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