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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4-
Křeslo
Into the corner, then to the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Křeslo
On the right side of the edge, higher slightly to the right (clockwise), back to the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Křeslo
Through the corner to the balcony and up the wall via the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Cirkus
Through the crack (loops) and wall to the ring. From the left onto the slanting shelf and… Rock Climbing
6
Křeslo
To the crack and along it (loops) over the overhang to the fore-summit. Rock Climbing
3
Křeslo
Left into the crack and along it to the balcony. Traverse along the ledge into the SW… Rock Climbing
5
Křeslo
Along the corner chimney and small crack to the fore-summit and new route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Křeslo
Through the middle of the wall over the overhang and directly (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Křeslo
Through the chimney below the small crack, right into the corner and to the fore-summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Termitiště
Along the wall near the edge over the ring to the ledge and left through the small corner… Rock Climbing
6
Termitiště
From the left to the edge and along it to the 1st ring. Through the middle of the pillar… Rock Climbing
6
Termitiště
Along the rusty wall to the ring above the small overhang and directly through the hole… Rock Climbing
5+
Maska
From the SW traverse left into the valley wall and along the crack over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
6
Vidle
Start along the edge and traverse on the ledge to the 1st ring. Further over the 2nd and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hrábě
Along the edge over the 1st ring to the 2nd ring and left along the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Hrábě
Through the middle of the wall (1st and 2nd ring) to the crack and along it left to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Vidle
Briefly through the chimney and along the edge (two rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vidle
Up through the chimney, step over into the SE wall and along the crack to the saddle.… Rock Climbing
?
Vidle
Left on the valley side along the wall to 4 K further up. Book inserted in 2015.
1
Uprchlík
From the uphill side along the edge (artificial steps). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Uprchlík
Through the middle of the valley wall to the ledge. Diagonally right to the edge (K) and…
1
Uprchlík
From the uphill side along the edge (artificial steps). Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Soudek
Along the edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Soudek
With the edge, higher up right (two rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Soudek
From the 2nd ring diagonally right to the crack in the center of the wall and along it to… Rock Climbing
6
Soudek
From the 2nd ring left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Soudek
From the 1st ring of Cerman's route, traverse diagonally right on the wall to the ring of… Rock Climbing
6
Soudek
From the fore-summit upwards on the valley wall over 3 rings and right to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Soudek
Up the wall near the edge (ring) to the notch and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Soudek
Up the wall to the 1st ring. Directly to the band and in it left to the 2nd ring. Over… Rock Climbing

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