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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Soudek
Along the crack to the 1st ring and up the wall to the 2nd ring. Directly up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Šestivěží
Along the edge to the 1st ring and up the wall near the edge (sling, spike) to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Soudek
*** WARNING ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Soudek
From the fore-summit diagonally right to the 1st ring (unprotected) and directly to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šestivěží
Through the center of the wall (ring) and from the right to Dary's ring. Rock Climbing
6
Šestivěží
Through the center of the wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šestivěží
Up the overhanging wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Šestivěží
Through the chimney between the tower edges and higher up a crack from the East (ring) to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šestivěží
Difficult up the delicate wall under the overhang, from the left (ring) above it and… Rock Climbing
6
Šestivěží
To the block and along the edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šestivěží
From the left to the edge and along it to the ring. Along the crack in the edge (loops)… Rock Climbing
6
Šestivěží
Through the left part of the wall, over the recess to the ring and straight up. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Šestivěží
Up the wall to the ledge and to the band to the 1st ring. Along the edge over two more… Rock Climbing
4+
Šestivěží
Up the chimney to the ring, traverse left and along the blunt edge. Rock Climbing
3
Šestivěží
Along the crack. Rock Climbing
2+
Šestivěží
From the intermediate towers up the small wall of the middle, lowest pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Šestivěží
Up the wall along the edge to the right of N. c. to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Šestivěží
From the passage through the chimney to the saddle. Right to the spikes and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šestivěží
From the ledge up the friable wall along the edge (two rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Šestivěží
From the opposition in the chimney, step into the wall above the overhang and up to the… Rock Climbing
5
Šestivěží
Along the edge or through the chimney to the balcony and through the corner crack (ring)… Rock Climbing
6
Šestivěží
Up the wall along the cracks diagonally left to the 1st ring, slightly left and along the… Rock Climbing
4-
Šestivěží
Along the slanted notch left into the chimney and by that to the ring. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Šestivěží
Briefly along a blunt edge and diagonally left to the 1st ring. From the right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Šestivěží
Directly to the 1st and 2nd rings. Right to the falcon and over the 3rd ring directly to… Rock Climbing
?
Šestivěží
2+
Šestivěží
Through the gorge into the intermediate towers to the fore-rock, by stepping over into… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Železné věže
To the left of the "Hipies Route", up a wide crack into the hollow. Right into the center… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Železné věže
Through the chimney to the falcon-like notch, then up it and the wall to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Železné věže
From the corner into a narrow chimney and higher up a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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