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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Sloup
Up the chimney to the ledge (25m) and behind the edge to the 1st ring. Right into the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sloup
By opposition in the chimney, left to the 2nd and 3rd ring of the SW wall. Right to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sloup
From the center of the traverse of the route Blood, Sweat and Tears by a fault over the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sloup
From the fore-rock traverse left onto the edge to the 1st ring. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sloup
Along the edge over two rings to the ledge, right into the center of the wall and… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sloup
Along the edge over a ring to the 1st ring of the route Blood, Sweat and Tears. Rock Climbing
6-
Sloup
From the fore-rock (standing) along the edge, or up the chimney to the fore-rock to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Negr
Through the center of the wall to the 1st ring, directly to the 2nd ring and left along… Rock Climbing
5+
Buková věž
From the fore-rock through the left part of the wall to the ring. Right into the crack… Rock Climbing
5+
Buková věž
From the right to the valley edge and left up the wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Buková věž
Open chimney to the ring and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Buková věž
From the start up the wall to the crack, along it into the crack in the E wall and… Rock Climbing
6-
Buková věž
From the ring traverse left to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
6-
Buková věž
Up the wall to a sloping ledge and along it to the right to the ring. Right to the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Buková věž
In the corner along the crack, higher up along the double crack over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Buková věž
Up the wall along the SW edge (two rings) and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Smrž
Through the center of the wall (1st ring) to the 2nd ring. Wall left into the 'sokolík' … Rock Climbing
6-
Smrž
Along the edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Smrž
To the right of the wide crack, up the wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Hlídka
From the S edge, traverse left in ledges over the E edge to the balcony. Double crack in… Rock Climbing
2+
Hlídka
By opposition between the tower and the adjacent massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Hlídka
Through the center of the plateau wall, right through the crack to the balcony and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ferda
Through the chimney briefly up. Left to the edge and by it over four rings to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ferda
From the green ledge to the center of the wall and across four rings. Rock Climbing
6-
Ferda
From the slope traverse left and directly to the 1st ring. Left to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ferda
By the route "Code Name Mirek" to the 1st ring, over the 2nd ring to the ledge and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ferda
Through a narrow crack over the 1st ring to the pine tree on the ledge, by wall right to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kukla
Slightly from the left to the 1st ring, directly to the ledge and to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Stonožka
Left part of the wall to the ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Stonožka
By wall under the rappel point (right hourglass), at the top from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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