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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4+
Hlávka
Along the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hlávka
Rock Climbing
6-
Prašivec
Along the slanting crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Prašivka
Significant overhang into the ledge (sling) and diagonally left to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Prašivka
Along the arêtes and up the wall over four rings into the crack and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Prašivka
Up the short wall into the crack and up that (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Prašivec
Left part of the wall over three rings to the balcony, left into the crack and up that to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Prašivec
Up the Onion Crack briefly above the ring. Traverse left and straight (2nd and 3rd ring)… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Prašivec
Up to the ledge (piton) and diagonally right to the 1st ring. 2 m right, up and from the… Rock Climbing
2+
Prašivec
From the sandy balcony via the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Prašivec
From the plateau side, through the chimney into the corner and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Prašivec
(By positioning) into the crack and up that (ring - additionally placed) to the summit. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Prašivec
Overhang and by positioning into the SW face (or traverse from the chimney). Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Prašivec
Along the arête (1st ring) to the end (2nd ring) and along the edge over the 3rd and 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prašivec
Up the chimney to the ring and up the wide, corner crack (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Prcek
Directly to the corner and to the 1st ring. From the left and directly to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Prcek
Up the crack over the ledge (slings) to the balcony (ring on the left) and up the crumbly… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Prcek
Right to the 1st ring, straight to the 2nd and 3rd ring, slightly left to the 4th ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Okrajová
From the plateau side, along the slanting crack to the ring. From the right upwards and… Rock Climbing
6
Okrajová
Up the wall over the overhang to the ring. Right to the edge and up the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing
5+
Okrajová
Left part of the valley wall over the 1st ring to the ledge. Up the wall (2nd ring) into… Rock Climbing
6
Okrajová
Along the arête to the 1st and 2nd rings. Directly to the 3rd ring, slightly right to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Okrajová
Right of the overhang to the edge and along that (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Okrajová
Up the smooth slab to the ring and diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hladká věž
N. c. to the ledge and traverse right in it to the edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hladká věž
From the balcony on the S edge, a long traverse in two ledges to the right to the E edge… Rock Climbing
6
Hladká věž
Left of the Manekin's path along the edge to a small shelf and through the fissure to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hladká věž
Along the blunt edge to the 1st ring, from the right under the overhang and from the left… Rock Climbing
5+
Hladká věž
Straight up the crack to the ledge under the overhang. Rock Climbing
6-
Hladká věž
From the saddle traverse left along the ledge to the edge and along it to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing

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