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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Albatros
Up the wall over a ring and through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Albatros
Right of Varhany through the chimney n.t.
6-
Albatros
Up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Albatros
Left of the route "Kvintet" up the brittle wall to the 1st ring. Overhanging, higher… Rock Climbing
4
Paroháč
Right of Nevěra through a crack n.t.
5+
Paroháč
Through the crack in the corner (loops). Rock Climbing
6
Paroháč
Right of 'Prostituce' up the wall to the ring. Directly to a short crack and along this…
6
Paroháč
Over the overhang and up the wall past two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Paroháč
Directly to the 1st ring, from the left to the ledge and right to the 2nd ring. From the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Paroháč
Up the wall past two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Paroháč
From the left to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
5
Mrška
Up the wall along the edge to the ledge and traverse into the NW face to the ring. Rock Climbing
6-
Mrška
In the NW face through the fissure and crack directly to the ring. Rock Climbing
6
Mrška
Up the center of the valley wall past 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Mrška
Directly up the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Mrška
Along the edge to the ring and up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Mrška
Up the wall over the niche diagonally left to the ring and along the W edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Mrška
Up the wall to the ledge, traverse all the way into the NW face to the crack (ring) and… Rock Climbing
5
Mrška
Up the center of the upper wall to the ledge, traverse right and directly to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6
Mrška
Up the wall past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Svatodušní věž
Over the overhang to the ring and up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Svatodušní věž
Up the center of the upper wall to the ledge (sling) and right to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Svatodušní věž
Left of 'Těžká pohoda' up the wall past 3 rings to the shelf. Freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Svatodušní věž
From the E edge traverse right into the center of the wall and up the brittle wall to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Svatodušní věž
From the shelf up the wall past two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Svatodušní věž
From the shelf traverse left to the edge to the ring, slightly left under the overhang… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Svatodušní věž
Up the wall past the 1st and 2nd rings to the 3rd ring and diagonally left to the shelf.… Rock Climbing
4+
Malá křížová věž
Directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Svatodušní věž
Up the wall past three rings to the shelf and freely to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Svatodušní věž
Along the right valley edge past the small ribs over two rings to the shelf and freely to… Rock Climbing

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