Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Back to list

Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5+
Šikmá věž
From the south edge to the ledge, then into the center of the SW face and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4-
Šikmá věž
From the east edge, traverse left to the 3rd ring of the SW route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Šikmá věž
Along the edge to the 1st ring, up to the 2nd ring and right along the SW route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7
Závětří
Up the crack over the ring into the niche and diagonally right along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Šikmá věž
From the gorge directly up the crack. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Šikmá věž
From the east edge, traverse left to the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6-
Šikmá věž
Up the wall directly over the 1st ring to the ledge and diagonally right to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Paroh
Up the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Závětří
Up the chimney (hour-glass) to the ring and along the crack to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
?
Oltář
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lednice
Up the valley wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Oltář
From the boulder up the wall directly to the Holy Confession ring and continue from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lednice
From the left valley edge, ascend the side wall diagonally left (1st ring, to attract… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Lednice
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mužík
From the center of the S wall diagonally left to the ledge, onto the balcony near the W… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hyena
Via the plateau edge over K. to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Vajíčko
From the saddle via the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Křehká
From the start of the East edge along ledges left into the SW wall. Up to the diagonal… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Křehká
Via the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kačer
In the right part of the West wall to a ledge (sling) and directly over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kačer
From the fore-summit near the N edge, step across to the edge, along it to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Průchodová věž
From the plateau side via the chimney and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Průchodová věž
Jump from the edge Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Průchodová věž
Up the North wall over an overhang, diagonally right to the crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Špičák
Via the SW corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Špičák
From the NE, first via the chimney and higher up via the crack over the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vlčice
Up the S wall diagonally right to the ring, traverse left and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vlčice
From the NE via a small crack through the hole to the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vlčice
From the N fore-summit, downclimb/traverse, traverse right to the crack and along it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vlčice
From the N pillar descend, downclimb/traverse into the wall and traverse to the ring.… Rock Climbing Textile belay

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.

Find a climbing partner