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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Bachyně
From the edge, step across/dyno to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Habakuk
Up the left part of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kolouch
Up the Southwest chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Habakuk
Up the small wall left of the "Normal Route" via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Bachyně
Up the S wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bachyně
Traverse from the SE edge into the S wall and left to a ring. Directly into a hole,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Bachyně
Up the right plateau edge to a hole, traverse right and along the edge to a ring. Left up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážnice
From the S edge traverse into the SW wall and in it via a crack and higher up a chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Strážnice
Up the NE corner crack via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Strážnice
From the saddle between the edges and the tower into a crack and via it to a balcony. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Menhir
From the ring right into a hole and from it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Menhir
Right of the edge to a ring, then left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Menhir
Up the Southwest face to a ring and left up a slab with friction to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Menhir
We start on the slightly overhanging north face, where we ascend to a small ledge. Above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Menhir
Up the East edge under the overhang (ring). From the ring slightly left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Okno
Up the NE wall (left of the Okena route) to a corner and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Menhir
Up the NE edge directly to a ledge (ring), diagonally right to the ring of route "S wall". Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Okno
Up the chimney and wall below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Okno
Up the curved NW edge along the ledges to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Okno
From the window on the NE side via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Okno
Up the valley (SW) wall left of the corner to a ledge, slightly left to another ledge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Náhradní věž
Up the right part of the NW face of the fore-rock to the ring. Right into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Náhradní věž
From the base of the SW edge over the ring into the crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Náhradní věž
Left of the SE crack up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Náhradní věž
Up the wall to the right along the crack in the SE face and higher up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Náhradní věž
Directly up the right edge of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Náhradní věž
Up the NE crack about halfway, traverse left into the SE crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Náhradní věž
From the NE into the chimney between the main tower and the fore-rock. Up the chimney to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Náhradní věž
Directly up the NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Zvonek
Up the narrow SE chimney to the fore-rock. Via a small wall or the "Normal Route" to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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