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Climbing at Diktátor

9 routes
5+–10-/10 grades

Part of 11. Mordor, Diktátor has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 10-/10. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

Google Waze
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8/8+
Diktátor
Between the routes "Kingdom of Laughter" and "Sour Ass" on the wall via BH, 4 K, and BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Diktátor
Center of the wall via 8 BH to the belay ring K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Diktátor
To the right of the route 'Eyes for Crying' up the wall via 3 K to an overgrown ledge (to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Diktátor
Completely to the right in the valley wall, up the corner to a ledge and traverse left.…
10-/10
Diktátor
From the 1st BH of the "Old Affair" route, right beyond the edge into the lower wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Diktátor
From the 5th BH of the "Weakest, You're Fired" route, diagonally right up the wall via 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Diktátor
Start via the "Full of Optimism" route to the 1st BH, then traverse left along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Diktátor
To the left of the "Sour Ass" route, up the wall, over an overhang, a corner, an edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Diktátor
Between Baldrick and Dictator, up the chimney for a few meters and right to the 1st BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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