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Climbing at El capitan

14 routes
3–8/8+ grades

Part of Skály na Rači, El capitan has 14 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 8/8+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps authority OP CHKO Kokořínsko1b

- The permit applies to free climbing, ice climbing, dry tooling, bouldering, and via ferrata are not allowed. - Trees and vegetation cover of the rocks must not be removed. Do not damage the surface of the rock. - RP (Redpoint) and OS (Onsight) are prohibited if the rope rubs, extend the belay on the rock so that the edge does not rub. - Magnesium and metal belay devices are prohibited. - It is forbidden to abseil from trees and shrubs, climbing on rocks soaked with water, snow-covered, and icy. - Climbing only from below, max. 5 team members, TOP ROPE is prohibited. 7a

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round in designated polygons. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps, Conservation Authority Kokořínsko Protected Landscape Area.

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
El capitan
In the left part of the massif from the saddle opposite "Račská Madonna" through the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
El capitan
From the 1st bolt of the "Salathe Wall" route, go left to the lower edge, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
El capitan
Through the wall below the rappel over 4 bolts and further. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
El capitan
Through the center of the lower wall over 5 bolts and further. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
El capitan
Through the middle of the North face, past 3 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
El capitan
Start in the middle of the North face, go up diagonally right to the edge and past 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
El capitan
To the left of the "Central Crack" route over 3 bolts to a large cave (hourglass), then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
El capitan
Along the Z edge over 4 bolts to a large cave (hourglass), then to the left along a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
El capitan
Through a lower chimney between the right and left parts of the massif, higher along a… Rock Climbing
7
El capitan
Through the center of the right part of M over a bolt to the crack (2nd bolt), along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
El capitan
In the right part of the wall through an indentation to the 1st bolt, then upwards and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
El capitan
In the right part of the wall at the edge, through an overhanging wall to a ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
El capitan
In the right part of the wall diagonally to the right through a diminishing indentation… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
El capitan
Through a prominent crack in the center of the right part of M over 2 bolts and further. Rock Climbing

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