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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
9
Lstivá stařena
Up the center of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6-
Dobračka
To the left of the route "For kindness to beggary", by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
2
Stolička
Through the north chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Stolička
From E by jumping n. v. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Dobračka
Along the narrow eastern wall and edge n. v. Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
1
Stolička
From N by jumping n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Spodek
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Spodek
Through the right part of the valley wall to K and slightly diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Spodek
Through the left part of the valley wall to K, left to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Spodek
Between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Spodek
From the right part of the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Žralok
In the right part of the upper wall diagonally right up the wall via K to the edge and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žralok
In the middle of the upper wall via an overhang from the massif and a steep step to the… Rock Climbing
6
Žralok
Along the East ridge to a ledge (knot) and by the original route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Žralok
In the left part of the upper wall along a small crack to a ledge, traverse the valley… Rock Climbing
6-
Slánka
Along the right valley edge over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Slánka
Along the right upper (SE) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Slánka
Up the middle of the East wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Slánka
In the right part of the East wall into the small cave (protection), from the right into… Rock Climbing
3
Slánka
From the upland side diagonally left to the ledge and via the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Slánka
In the left part of the upland wall along the blunt edge directly above the hourglasses… Rock Climbing
1
Slánka
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Slánka
Through the wide chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Mužík
By traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Mužík
In the right part of the East wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kostnice
In the left part of the valley wall up the rib, left into the corner above the small cave… Rock Climbing
6
Kostnice
Up the valley wall in the fall line of the summit notch to the ledge (summit book) and… Rock Climbing
4
Kostnice
In the left part of the valley wall to the small cave, up to the left, traverse right,… Rock Climbing
5
Kostnice
In the right part of the valley wall along the North edge up to the bench under the… Rock Climbing
4
Kostnice
Along the edge into the niche, traverse left and via the gully to the top. Rock Climbing

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