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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Kostnice
Through the left part of the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kostnice
Up the center of the NW wall to the crack (knot) and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Kostnice
From the massif, traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Stojan
Follow the route "Fly on the Wall" to the clock and diagonally right to the K of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6-
Stojan
Left of the route "Valley Crack" into the indentation (belay), traverse left to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Goliáš
Start 1.5 m left of the SE edge, right to the edge and directly over the small cave and… Rock Climbing
3
Goliáš
In the left part of the S wall, up the chimney to the terrace on the SW ridge and with a… Rock Climbing
4
Goliáš
In the gorge between M and the tower, up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Goliáš
From the massif from the pine tree in the slab groove to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Goliáš
Up the chimney in the North wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
David
Through the middle of the plateau wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
David
From the massif from the East, step over under the bench, traverse right behind the edge… Rock Climbing
6-
Simulant
In the middle of the plateau wall, diagonally right onto the right plateau edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
David
Up the right part of the plateau wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Simulant
Along the left plateau edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Simulant
Up the South face through the hole to the chimneys and along them to K. Up the shallow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Simulant
Up the valley wall directly over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Piškuntálek
In the Northwest face, along the crack diagonally right and upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Piškuntálek
Along the Southwest edge to the hourglass formations, left behind the edge onto the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Piškuntálek
Upwards along the uphill face (hourglass formation). Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vějíř
Upwards to the left of the West edge. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
3
Piškuntálek
Upwards along the East face. Rock Climbing
2
Vějíř
Upwards through the middle of the North face. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5
Vějíř
Upwards through the middle of the South face. Rock Climbing
2
Vějíř
Upwards along the left uphill edge. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Liška
In the right part of the South face, into the crack, then right onto the edge and upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Liška
Up the center of the East face to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Liška
Along the NW edge (K) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Liška
Up a small wall into a narrow chimney and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Liška
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing

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