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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Kudýš
Along the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kudýš
Through the middle of the NW wall, higher up on the left to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kudýš
From the plateau side along the right edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Garuda
Up the right upper edge briefly, left to the crack and through it into the niche (slings)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Garuda
Up the middle of the valley (S) wall directly to the balcony with pine trees. Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Garuda
Up the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Garuda
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Král třech trpaslíků
Up the middle of the west wall directly to the abseil point K to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Král třech trpaslíků
Up the valley edge from the foresummits directly to the top (2 smaller pitons). Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Garuda
Up the chimney to the left edge to K, step over to the bench, traverse to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Bábel
Up the upper chimney and in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Bábel
From the right upper (N) edge traverse the NW wall along the iron ledge into the SW wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Povaleč
From the plateau side, traverse right to the middle of the valley wall (S). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Otrok
Along the southeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bábel
Up the valley chimney to the ledge (belay), in the valley (S) wall diagonally left … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bábel
By crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bábel
From the massif, drop into the right part of the plateau wall and right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Viklava
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Viklava
From the block in M, jump to the ledge of the "Mammoth Trail" route and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Viklava
In the north face, by standing and moving up to K. Left along the edge under the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Viklava
Up the east face along the edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Povaleč
Left on the north side, up a crack in a shallow corner (slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Povaleč
Up the right plateau edge (NW) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Viklava
Up the plateau wall along the SW edge to the ledge and up the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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