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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Věžička na Bezvelu
Over a roof-like overhang and a piton to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Věžička na Bezvelu
2 m to the right of the "Normal Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Věžička na Bezvelu
Up the wall along the slanted cracks over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Vidimská věžička
From the NE wall to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Věžička na Bezvelu
Completely to the right in the upper wall over an overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vidimská věžička
By climbing/positioning and the East edge to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Vidimská věžička
By the North edge to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Věžička na Bezvelu
Along the edge over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Věžička na Bezvelu
From the middle of the valley wall to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Věžička na Bezvelu
In the right part of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Loupežník
Through cracks along the right upper edge to a small shelf behind the edge and over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Věžička na Bezvelu
Through the left part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Věžička na Bezvelu
Through the middle of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Loupežník
Along the left upper edge to the fore-rock and to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Loupežník
Through an overgrown notch in the valley wall to the fore-rock and by the "Normal Route"… Rock Climbing
2
Loupežník
From the upper side by a chimney to the fore-rock and over a step to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Loupežník
Through the valley wall over 2 pitons to the fore-rock and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Věžička na Bezvelu
From the upper side into the eastern wall and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vyhnívák
From the upper side by a crack, step over into the overgrown wall and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vyhnívák
Through the left part of the valley wall to the huge clock. Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kerouš
By the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Čekatel
In the right part of the Southeast wall diagonally to the right to the East edge and… Rock Climbing
4
Kerouš
From the NE edge diagonally right and by an indentation to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Vyhnívák
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Čekatel
Up the Northwest wall below the rappel point to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čekatel
Along the North edge over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čekatel
From the ledge in the Northeast wall up the smooth sloping wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Maska
Through the crack in the right part of the East wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Ostrožník
Through a narrow chimney in a massive corner roughly in the middle of the NE wall to the… Rock Climbing
4
Maska
In the left part of the NW wall to the right of "Left Masquerade" onto an overgrown small… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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