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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Menhir
Through the SW wall over the K (piton) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Holub
Ascent via the upland (south) wall, then traverse to the western edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Bukáč baňatý
From the summit of "Kamenáč" (Stone Man/Rock Pile) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sud (Fass)
From the highest point of the upland side by standing on the ledge and over the overhang… Rock Climbing
7
Sud (Fass)
In the north wall diagonally right to the edge to the K (piton) and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Menhir
From the upland side along the small crack to the K (piton) and upwards to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Žlučník
In the right part of the southeast face along the cracks (slings) to K and slightly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Lapač duší
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Lapač duší
From the subsidiary spire, jump to the ledge and briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Lapač duší
Along the left upland edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Žlučník
Through the NW face directly to the left crack (slings) and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8
Žlučník
In the left part of the NW face slightly from the right to the 1st K, directly to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Žmolek
Through the middle of the West face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Žmolek
Through the middle of the East wall and slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Žlučník
Along the North edge directly to K. Up to the hourglasses, left onto the rounded edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Žmolek
Along the valley wall, initially overhanging, at the top through a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Žmolek
Along the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Žmolek
Along the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Špička (Žlučový kámen)
Along the face below the rappel point to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Špička (Žlučový kámen)
Along the valley face near the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Špička (Žlučový kámen)
Through the East face over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Špička (Žlučový kámen)
Through the West face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Upíří hrad (Upíří stolice)
In the right part of the valley (North) wall over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Česnek a cibule
Through the North face and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Česnek a cibule
Along the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Česnek a cibule
Through the South chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Upíří hrad (Upíří stolice)
Along the left upper edge over the hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Upíří hrad (Upíří stolice)
In the left part of the SW face on the ledge and by the original route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Upíří hrad (Upíří stolice)
Along the right upper edge to a shelf (clock), up the wall to further clocks, left behind… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Upíří hrad (Upíří stolice)
Through the right part of the SW wall to the clock, traverse left to the edge (clock) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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