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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Tvarožník (Quargelstein)
To the right in the south face via the friable crack (hourglass) to the ledge, left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Lesní hlava (Waldkopf)
From SE along the bench to the right to the ridge between the fore-peak and the main… Rock Climbing
6-
Tvarožník (Quargelstein)
Up the East face over 2 K's onto the balcony of the "Old Route" and via it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Tvarožník (Quargelstein)
Left of the East edge via the small gully to the 1st K. Right into the crack and via it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tvarožník (Quargelstein)
Via the North crack to its end, up the wall to the left (hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tvarožník (Quargelstein)
Left of the "North Route" (Easter) up the wall over 2 K's and left into the crack, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Tvarožník (Quargelstein)
From S via the crack to K. Via the crack and a slanting slab to the right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
From the SE, via the left of two chimneys to a ledge, via the wall slightly left to… Rock Climbing
3
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
In the east wall, via the right of two chimneys to a large ledge, 2 m diagonally right… Rock Climbing
3
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
From the second ledge, directly via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
In the west face via the right crack and the wall over the boulder to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
From the crack of the "Chimney Route" sharply diagonally right and up the gully to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
5 m right of the start of the "Maiden's Rib" via the wall and a prominent rib (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
Right of the SW edge via the rib to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
From the start of the "Old Route" along the ledge to the right via the crack and chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
About 3 m right of the start of the "Maiden's Rib", first directly up the honeycomb wall,… Rock Climbing
2
Popelová věž
Via the uphill edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Popelová věž
Via the NE edge and further to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Popelová věž
Via the crack to the left of the center of the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Jelení kužel
From the uphill side, via a standing start/stance and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
From the north, via a notch/gully and over a step to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Panenská skála (Jungfernstein)
From the start of the "Old Route" to the left (hourglass/niche) and via a notch/gully to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kurník
From the west, into the chimney between M and the tower and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Šavlas
In the right part of the valley wall, via the wall over K and directly over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Podvraťák
From the south to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Kurník
From the massif, a short traverse/descent to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Podvraťák
In the uphill wall to the left (small spire/point), via a wide crack/straddle around the… Rock Climbing
3
Podvraťák
In the middle of the chimney between M and the tower, into the recess and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Podvraťák
Completely to the left, descend along M to the tower and traverse/step over to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kurník
From the east, via a wide crack/straddle to the top. Rock Climbing

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