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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Dvojhlava
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Dvojhlava
Via the chimney between the tower and the fore-summit and a step over to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojhlava
From NE, via the chimney to the fore-summit and via the "Old Way" to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Dvojhlava
From the gap between the tower and its NE fore-summit onto the fore-summit and a step… Rock Climbing
2
Dvojhlava
Via the west edge to the NW fore-summit and over it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mukl
Via wall M left of the east chimney to the hour-glasses, then via a spillover and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mukl
From the right into the west wall and to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Mukl
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mukl
From the north edge, diagonally left via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Prasečí hřbet (Kummerwand - Hradčanská stěna)
4m right of the uphill edge, via a notch in the W wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Prasečí hřbet (Kummerwand - Hradčanská stěna)
To the right in the valley wall, via a crack-chimney (or the wall to its right) to a… Rock Climbing
6-
Prasečí hřbet (Kummerwand - Hradčanská stěna)
From the south, via a crack transitioning into a chimney to a balcony. Left and via an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Prasečí hřbet (Kummerwand - Hradčanská stěna)
10m left of the "Old Way", via the wall and a recess, then diagonally right via the wall… Rock Climbing
4
Tvarohová jehla
To the right of the start of the "Milker's Way" (Mlékařská cesta), via the S edge and… Rock Climbing
2
Mukl
Via the uphill chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Zarostlá věž (Bewachsener Turm)
From the uphill side, via the wall to a bench, 2m left and via a gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Tvarohová jehla
Left of the "Milkman's Route" by standing on a block, left onto the edge and along the … Rock Climbing
2
Prasečí hřbet (Kummerwand - Hradčanská stěna)
Along the uphill (NE) edge to the top. First known ascent by Vladimír Šillinger on 25. 4.… Rock Climbing
3
Prasečí hřbet (Kummerwand - Hradčanská stěna)
3m left of the start of the "Old Way" (Stará cesta), via the wall diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
3
Ralská vyhlídka (Rollblick)
Along the North edge over the balcony to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Ralská vyhlídka (Rollblick)
From SE below the small tree onto the balcony, right and along the north edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Lesní hlava (Waldkopf)
From the start of the "Old Route" directly up the wall, higher up diagonally left and… Rock Climbing
7
Rozkvetlá věž
In the SW face via the overhanging notch, traverse left to the edge (K). Along the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rozkvetlá věž
Left in the valley wall via the rib to the 1st K and further to the 2nd K, diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rozkvetlá věž
Along the West edge directly to the 1st K. Diagonally left and directly to the 2nd K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Rozkvetlá věž
Via the chimney in the summit wall to the top. First known ascent Radek Mikuláš, V.… Rock Climbing
5
Tvarohová jehla
From the summit side to the right via the gully onto a small balcony, left into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ralská vyhlídka (Rollblick)
1 m right of the SW edge via the wall onto the balcony, along it to the right and along… Rock Climbing
6-
Tvarožník (Quargelstein)
Left of the "Old Route" via the crack over 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tvarožník (Quargelstein)
From the north side via the crack (tree) to its end (loop). Up the wall directly, or left… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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