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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Půlnoční stěna
Up the wall via the bolt into the corner and up it difficult. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Cikáně
Up the South small wall freely upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Půlnoční stěna
Up the West wall via hourglasses to the bolt, then up via further hourglasses difficult. Rock Climbing
7
Čertova zeď
Along the NW edge of the second block via 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čertova zeď
Through the left part of the E wall via K and sand-hourglasses to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čertova zeď
Through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Čertova zeď
Through the right part of the E wall via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Čertova zeď
Up the West wall from the large block via 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Čertova zeď
Through the chimney between the blocks to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Čertova zeď
In the left part of the E wall to 1st K, along the edge via 2nd K to the large sand… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Čertova zeď
To the left of the route "Bet on the Soul" via the slab into holes (sand-hourglasses) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Čertova zeď
Up the North wall of the first block via 1st K to the ledge, then further through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Čertova zeď
Through the right part of the W wall of the first block into the cave (sand-hourglasses)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Čertova zeď
Along the edge of the first block via three sand-hourglasses to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertova zeď
Along the NW edge of the first block via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Čertova zeď
From W via the crack in the first block to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Masiv
To the right of the "Old Route" up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Masiv
By the West edge over 2 K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Masiv
In the NW face of the massif, by the crack to the right of the break/notch upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Masiv
By chimneying between the tower and the fore-rock to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Masiv
From the left fore-rock via a leap/traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Masiv
By positioning into the left crack and by it upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Masiv
In the right part of the E wall along the edge via 1st and 2nd K to the ledge, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Přimknutá věžička
By the crack-chimney from the NW upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Masiv
To the left of the "Old Route", by stemming, then mantel and upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Masiv
Through the chimney from the upper/plateau side upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Obr
By the right upper/plateau edge upwards. Rock Climbing
1
Obr
From the massif, by a short step-down, upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Obr
Through the right part of the valley face over 3 K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Přimknutá věžička
By the SE edge over K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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