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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Křemílek a Vochomůrka (Dvojvěží)
Up the North face to the left to the E edge via K and upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Křemílek a Vochomůrka (Dvojvěží)
To the right of the 'Winter's Tale' route onto the balcony and up below the abseil point. Rock Climbing
2
Skřet
Up the small upper wall to the ledge and right along the edge upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ježibaba
In the left part of the valley wall to the balcony and up the gully, brittle. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ježibaba
Along the left upper edge to the shelf (clock). Up the wall below the abseil point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Křemílek a Vochomůrka (Dvojvěží)
Up the chimney from the upper side. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Křemílek a Vochomůrka (Dvojvěží)
Through the left part of the S face of the E tower to the small balcony and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ježibaba
Start at the S edge, diagonally left, higher right to the clock and over the steps of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Křemílek a Vochomůrka (Dvojvěží)
From the right valley edge diagonally left to K. Up the overhanging wall to the clock and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kubula
In the left part of the valley wall via a crack over the bolt freely upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Kubula
Through the center of the plateau wall freely upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Barbucha
From the hourglasses of the "Jitčin's Discovery" route, traverse to the East edge, then… Rock Climbing
4
Ježibaba
Through the middle of the upper wall into a small cave, right to the edge and upwards,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kubula
In the right part of the valley wall via a crack and over a small pillar to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kubula
In the plateau wall along the bench to the left to the hourglasses and to the right of… Rock Climbing
6
Barbucha
In the right part of the South wall up into the small cave, from there left into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
9
Barbucha
Up the valley wall via 4 bolts to the summit. (large hourglasses between the 3rd and 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Kubula
From the plateau side up the Southwest edge to the small ledge, right to the terrace and… Rock Climbing
7
Polednice
In the right part of the South wall directly to the bolt. Diagonally right to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Polednice
Up the blunt edge between the South and Northeast wall to the small balcony, up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Cikáně
Through the center of the South wall from the block freely upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Barbucha
From the right to the West edge and up to the balcony (sling). Continuing up the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Polednice
From the "Gypsy" ledge, jump to the East edge and freely upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Polednice
Overhang to the East edge and freely upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Polednice
Ascent on the East edge, traverse about 1.5m to the left and up via two recesses freely… Rock Climbing
5
Polednice
From the bolt to the right up the wall freely upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Polednice
In the Northeast wall right upwards to the bolt, into the small cave and left freely… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Polednice
In the South wall from the right into the recess (knot), up the wall to the right into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Půlnoční stěna
Up the right part of the South wall via 2 bolts difficult. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Půlnoční stěna
Up the chimney difficult. Rock Climbing

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