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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Kusoň
In the west wall along the ledge diagonally left to K. Up to a step, just left behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pomezní
By the wall to the left along the edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pomezní
In the middle part of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Pomezní
From the massif by stepping over two chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pomezní
In the left part of the valley wall by a gully to a terrace, through a chimney to another… Rock Climbing
1
Šindelník
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Šindelník
Directly through the middle of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šindelník
Up the South wall over the hour-glass (holds) to the left to the edge towards the rib,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Šindelník
Through the chimney from the North via ledges to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Šindelník
Up the narrow North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vyřezaná
Through the chimney and over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dlouhá věž
The route leads through a sloping chimney, separating the NW and SE parts of the tower.… Rock Climbing
1
Zimořský kozel
From the massif from the West, over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Zimořský kozel
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vyřezaná
From the SE from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vyřezaná
Up the plateau wall, higher up from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Vyřezaná
Up the valley wall to the 1st anchor, then slightly diagonally right to the edge and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Zimořský kozel
Up the South ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Dlouhá věž
From the massif from the east to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Dlouhá věž
In the plateau wall to the right of the "Old Route", via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Medium
On the E side of the tower via a chimney with a very wide entrance to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Micinka
Via the crack in the E wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Dlouhá věž
Up the wide chimney between M and NW tower and by stepping over to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dlouhá věž
In the left part of the plateau chimney between the East Massif and the tower below the… Rock Climbing
1
Medium
From the west end of the "Long Tower", jump down to the terrace and to the left to the… Rock Climbing
?
Medium
From the massif, a step-across to the ledge on the right edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Dlouhá věž
On the valley wall of the NW tower, directly over 2 anchors to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Dlouhá věž
In the left part of the plateau wall, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Medium
Via the chimney between the tower and M diagonally left to the terrace and left to the… Rock Climbing
3
Medium
Via the chimney between the tower and M to the ledge, right to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing

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