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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Čtyřzubá věž
Through the left part of the southwest face over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Čtyřzubá věž
Via the right valley chimney to the platform, then further via the chimney, narrowing… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hrbáč
In the right part of the upper face over a small rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Hrbáč
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Čtyřzubá věž
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Hrbáč
Through the center of the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřzubá věž
Via the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřzubá věž
Via the north edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kulisová věž
Along the left upper edge to K and via a crack (loop) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kulisová věž
In the left part of the backdrop to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kulisová věž
Via the SW edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kulisová věž
Through the center of the north face below the rib to the 1st K, from the right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Čtyřzubá věž
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čtyřzubá věž
Via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřzubá věž
Via the crack to the left of the Left East Crack to the ledge and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4
Čtyřzubá věž
Via the crack between the routes 'Right East Chimney' and the original route to the ledge… Rock Climbing
4
Kulisová věž
In the upper (SE) face of the backdrop via an oblique crack to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kulisová věž
In the upper face along the overhanging edge of the backdrop into a niche, then right via… Rock Climbing
5
Kulisová věž
Along the right edge of the backdrop over ferrous nodules to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Novomanželský masív
In the west face, to the right of the bivouac, via the chimney to K, upwards to the… Rock Climbing
6
Novomanželský masív
In the right part of the west face, via the laid-back corner into the depression, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Novomanželský masív
From the birch in the rock to the right of the "Men's Ride" route, over two holes, a… Rock Climbing
2
Kulisová věž
Through the chimney between the tower and the backdrop to the top of the backdrop and to… Rock Climbing
3
Novomanželský masív
Left of the "Rumtarata" route through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Spare Route
7
Novomanželský masív
Along the SE edge to K and over the belly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Novomanželský masív
To the right in the NE face via a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +2
6
Novomanželský masív
From the birch in the rock via an indistinct western edge to the hourglass formation … Rock Climbing
4
Poutník
Right part of the W wall to the edge and up along it to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Novomanželský masív
In the plateau part (S) through the chimney and further along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall +1
1
Poutník
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing

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