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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Podvraťák
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Šedá myš
Through the center of the E face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šavlas
In the right part of the uphill side, by strenuous climbing into the wall, to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Praštěná věž
Via the crack, higher up via the chimney in the valley face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šavlas
Start in the left part of the E face, then diagonally right (thread/chockstone). Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Šavlas
In the left part of the uphill wall, upwards to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Šedá myš
Via the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Šedá myš
In the right part of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Šedá myš
Through the center of the north face left of the "Old Route" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šedá myš
Via the small tower/pinnacle from the north to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Praštěná věž
In the E face via the corner to the block and via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kotlářka
Through the valley chimney to the summit.
4
Ufi
From the NE edge traverse left, up to the crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Praštěná věž
From the S descend from the massif and traverse the massif wall right to the exit of the… Rock Climbing
1
Praštěná věž
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kotlářka
From SE from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kotlářka
Through the wide chimney below the abseil/rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Kotlářka
From NE from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Praštěná věž
In the west face, left of the plateau chimney, along the cracks and over the chimney to… Rock Climbing
1
Praštěná věž
From the massif descend and via a short drop/jump, to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kamenáč
From the sub-summit ledge traverse left past the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kotlářka
From NE via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kamenáč
Along the upland edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kamenáč
In the SW face traverse into its center, directly into the hollow and to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Kamenáč
From the top of "Bukáč baňatý" and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Holub
From the K (piton) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Holub
From the NE onto the balcony, through the diagonal crack to the K (piton), 3 m right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bukáč baňatý
Through the valley gully to the ledge, then left (cairn/pitons) and up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Bukáč baňatý
Through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bukáč baňatý
In the right part of the upland wall to the K (piton) and through the narrow crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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