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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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6
Malá Maří
From the West corner and right along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
7
Malá Maří
In the North face through the hole to the gendarme and up it to the ledge to K and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Malá Maří
Left on the South face over the overhang and directly along the wall to the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Malá Maří
In the South wall, right of the crack, diagonally right to a shallow crack and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Malá Maří
Along the SE ridge to the top. Rock Climbing Laid wall
2
Domino
Through the chimney from the southeast to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Domino
Along the right valley edge via K and from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Domino
Through the chimney from the NW to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Poustevník
Along the right upper edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Poustevník
Through the chimney between the W massif and the tower to the ledge, traverse into the W… Rock Climbing
5
Domino
Along the East ridge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Poustevník
In the right part of the valley wall over the overhang directly into the groove and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Poustevník
In the right part of the upper (S) wall up to the ledge, traverse left and through the… Rock Climbing
4
Poustevník
In the left part of the upper (S) wall directly up and over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Poustevník
In the left part of the upper (S) wall diagonally left to the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Poustevník
Through the middle of the valley wall along the small crack over K to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Poustevnice
Through the chimney in the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Poustevnice
Up the wall to a ledge and through the crack (slings) over K to the ledge (tree). Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Poustevnice
Briefly through the middle of the north wall n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Poustevnice
Along the ledge in the north wall right into the chimney and up it n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Orlice
Along the left part of the wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Poustevnice
On artificial steps on the NE edge n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Orlice
Via the narrow gully/chimney in the left part of the valley wall to the 1st K. Up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Orlice
Mantle over the block and along the right part of the S wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Orlice
Through the crack in the right part of the valley wall to the balcony, left into another… Rock Climbing Spare Route
6
Orel
In the right part of the S wall into the gully, through it to the balcony to K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Orlice
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Orlice
Step over from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Orlí hnízdo
By stepping over from the massif or via the "Northwest Notch" route and left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Orel
From the boulder at the right valley edge left into the wall and up to K, left up onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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