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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Stodolník
In the middle of the N wall over the lower bulge to the ledge and straight to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stodolník
To the right of the NW edge through a recess via holes to the terrace and to the right of… Rock Climbing
5
Stodolník
Along the NW edge to the terrace, left to the edge and along the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stodolník
In the right part of the valley (S) wall, through an overhanging small wall into a hole … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stodolník
Through the eastern chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Stodolník
Through the eastern chimney below the summit head, traverse left into the western chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Stodolník
Through the middle of the E wall to the terrace, to the hourglass and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Stodolník
Along the SE edge over K to the terrace and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4
Sevřená
In the E wall left to the SE edge, along it (loops) to the ledge and either 2 m right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Sevřená
Through the right part of the E wall directly to the crack of the original route and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Sevřená
From the plateau side to the NE pre-peak, step over into the NE wall and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Sevřená
In the W wall from the pre-peak by an incision to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sevřená
From the ledge to the NE pre-peak, step over to the edge and along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Borůvková
From W by the edge over 3 steps to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Borůvková
From E by a crack (hour) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Borůvková
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Borůvková
By jumping from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Sochařská věž
From the massif from the East to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hlava
From the NW from the fore-rock to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Hlava
Through the right part of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hlava
In the left part of the S wall, by the wall over K, higher up via the "Old Route" to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hlava
Via the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hlava
In the left part of the valley wall through an indentation with an overhanging start to… Rock Climbing
3
Bota
Through the right part of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Bota
Through the left part of the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bota
Along the valley edge over 2 K to the ledge and over the spike to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hlava
From the upper side to the balcony in the valley wall via the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Bota
In the north face along the iron vein over K to the ledge, further to the spike and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bota
Through the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Bota
Through the south wall traverse to the downhill edge and over the point to the top. Rock Climbing

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