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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Bota
Through the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Bota
Through the south wall traverse to the downhill edge and over the point to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Želva
In the left part of the wall through the crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Želva
From the NW through small corner incisions over K and through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Želva
Along the wall over 2 K, higher up through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bota
Through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Želva
In the left part of the wall to the 1st K, up and left over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Želva
In the right part of the wall via a small corner to the ledge, right to the 1st K. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Lvice a lví stěna
Through the smooth wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv trempů
In the left part of the NW wall along fine cracks to 1st K. Up the wall into a cut and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv trempů
In the northwest wall by a 'sokolík' crack and up the wall over a horizontal cut to 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Masiv trempů
In the right part of the NW wall by a crack to K, further to a large platform and from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Masiv trempů
In the corner from a boulder through a crack and higher up n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Masiv trempů
Right of the route "Sunny Pastures" through the corner n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Masiv trempů
Through the middle of the wall to K. Up the wall into a crack and along it to its end.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Masiv trempů
In the right part of the wall in a dark band over 4 K into a hole under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Soví stěna
3 m left of Owl's Crack through the middle of the wall over 2 K to the ledge. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lavice
Along the falcon-like brittle cracks to the 1st K. Traverse right up to the 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Lavice
Through the chimney to the left of the attached feature n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Kladivo
Via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kladivo
Left of the chimney, over the overhang and along the edge over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kladivo
Up the chimney of the route "Chimney" and traverse right below the gully and via it to… Rock Climbing
6-
Kladivo
Right of the bivouac to the 1st bolt, left upwards to the 2nd bolt and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Kladivo
Over the overhang onto a ledge, right into a wide crack, via that to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Overhang
7
Masiv slunce
From the 1st bolt left and along the edge continuously directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv slunce
Via the arête/pillar and higher via the wall to K and traverse right to K of the original… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv slunce
Right of the original route via the wall over K and higher via the wall and left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Jezevec
Via the chimney from the north side to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Jezevec
Right of the route "Chimney" along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Jezevec
From the bivouac into the overhanging crack and to the top. Rock Climbing

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