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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Vydlabanec
Through the right part of the plateau face directly over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vydlabanec
From the NE, right along the terrace to the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Magor
Up the chimney to the left of the "Left" route to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Vydlabanec
From the balcony on the plateau side, left past the edge and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Patník
In the left part of the Northeast face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Patník
Between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Patník
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Patník
From the South face to the balcony to anchor (K). Through the middle of the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Patník
Along the valley edge to the balcony to anchor (K) of the route "Beech Alley", along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zahrádka
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Srnka
In the left part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Dvojník
Up the valley wall over K, left to the large hourglass on the edge and directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Dvojník
Up the center of the overhanging upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing Overhang
7
Dvojník
Up the wall along the left upper edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Dvojník
Up the center of the South wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
1
Hláska
Up the small West wall from the platform above the saddle. Rock Climbing
3
Hláska
From the cave over the overhang and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
3
Hláska
Through a crack on the East wall to a ledge and from there slightly right to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Hláska
Traverse from the left along the ledge into the overgrown south wall to the double tree.… Rock Climbing
3
Vykotlaný zub
Through the chimney between the tower and "Haňulka" to the right onto the ledge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Haňulka
By the corner crack (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ondřej
From the uphill side to the right onto the bench in the north wall, through the center of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Skalská stěna
By a distinct, slightly sloping pillar over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Loď
By traversing/jumping from a higher massif to the center of the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Loď
From the plateau gorge briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Loď
Along the right edge of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
10
Kolos
Along the overhanging edge in the left part of the valley wall to K directly onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
Přeskok
Kolos
From ledge M, traverse/jump to the top. Rock Climbing
9
Kolos
In the middle of the valley wall, up the wall into a crack (BH) widening into an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Kolos
From the top of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing

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