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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
9
Kolos
In the middle of the valley wall, up the wall into a crack (BH) widening into an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kolos
Through the plateau chimney along the crack in the massif (loops) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mechová
From the NE via the notch to the fore-rock and via the groove to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Mechová
Through the corner to a small platform and easily to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Mechová
From the plateau side, left along the footbridge into the crack and via it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mechová
Through the crack in the valley wall to the gully and via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Podvodník
From the massif, descend and traverse into the 'Valley Chimney' route, and via that to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Podvodník
Left from the massif via an overhang/traverse and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Podvodník
From the valley, along the ledge left into the chimney, and through it; higher up, via an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Podvodník
Through the chimney along a short plateau edge to a small balcony, from there left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Vodník
Via the SE plateau wall from a boulder diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Vodník
From the massif, a jump/leap to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vodník
Through the crack along the E edge, over the ring, and via the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Ďáblík
Via the valley wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vodník
Left of the Old Route via an inclined wall to a ledge and diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vodník
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Ďáblík
From the uphill side over the overhang, using bridging onto a sloping balcony and from… Rock Climbing
2
Ďáblík
From protrusion M, traverse to the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vajgl
In the left part of the south face over the slanting ramps into the notch and left a step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vajgl
Through the center of the north face, higher up right over the edge into the gully and up… Rock Climbing
6-
Vajgl
Through the crack in the right part of the valley wall to its end and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Vajgl
Through the center of the south face and right along the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vajgl
Up the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Poslední věž
In the right part of the valley wall over K into the gully and left over the balcony n. v… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Poslední věž
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Poslední věž
From the massif, traverse to the center of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kuře
In the left part of the north wall through an overhanging small wall into a crack and… Rock Climbing
5
Kuře
Up the narrow valley edge over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Kuře
From the upper side through a chimney to the balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Kuře
By bridging between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing

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