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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Kuře
From the SE through a corner to the balcony and left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Kuře
Traverse from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Dvojčata
From NE through the chimney to the balcony, further along the "Záda" (Back) route to the… Rock Climbing
2
Bivaková stěna
From the NE by a short steep ascent to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Bivaková stěna
From the west from M by traversing to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bivaková stěna
Up the middle of the S wall over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bivaková stěna
In the right part of the valley wall through a chimney between the edge and M to the… Rock Climbing
5
Dvojčata
Through the center of the valley wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dvojčata
Up the West wall 3 m to the right of the "Hodinářství" (Watchmaking) route via K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Dvojčata
From NW over an overhang into the chimney between the towers and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojčata
Along the west edge of the south tower over a system of hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Dvojčata
To the right of the "Zuby nehty" (Teeth and Nails) route along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Dvojčata
In the left part of the upper wall briefly over a small ledge, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Lebka
Up the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Ikona
In the left part of the valley wall via 2 K into the crack and along it to the top of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ikona
In the left part of the valley wall through an inclined crack to the top of the formation. Rock Climbing
4
Golem
In the left part of the wall diagonally right via a receding recess over K to the terrace… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Golem
Through the center of the valley wall via K to K of the "Windy" route and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Ikona
Up the smooth wall via 2 K to the top of the formation. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ikona
In the center of the valley wall, through a crack via K to the top of the formation. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Štítek
In the right part of the wall, over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Štítek
In the left part of the wall, an oblique crack to K. Straight up the wall and right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Štítek
Along the left edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vyhlídka
In the NW wall, along the ledge into a crack and follow it over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vyhlídka
To the left of the pillar, via the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídka
In the NE wall, through a narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídka
In the left part of the NE wall, up the wall into a diagonally running crack and follow… Rock Climbing
7
Vyhlídka
From the NE, up the wall over the 1st K into the hole and from the left over the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídka
In the large recess, up the wall and later along the arête to K. Through a wide crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vyhlídka
Along the edge of the pillar over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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