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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Kejchal
Through the left part of the S wall to K, left onto the edge and along it upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Kejchal
Along the SE edge upwards. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5
Kejchal
In the N wall to the left of the route "Northern Crack" upwards. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Kejchal
Through the center of the S wall by a right-trending indentation to K and then a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Kejchal
In the N wall along the ledge and small crack upwards. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Kejchal
From the top of "Prófa" upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Rejpal
Through the middle of the North face to the ledge, traverse left to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing
3
Rejpal
In the right part of the South wall to the right onto the East edge and to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Rejpal
Through the middle of the South wall over the small crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Rejpal
Through the chimney between the tower and the block along its West face to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Rejpal
From the block between "Snow White" and the tower, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rejpal
In the left part of the South wall via the sloping plank/ledge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Sněhurka
By the NE edge under the overhang to a piton and to the left by a shallow indentation to… Rock Climbing
4
Rejpal
From the NW edge over the patch/adhesion to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Sněhurka
By the NW edge to a piton and from there directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Sněhurka
In the right part of the NW face over 2 pitons to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sněhurka
Through the middle of the NW face over 2 pitons to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Sněhurka
To the right of the NE edge via the small pillar/pinnacle under the overhang (hourglasses… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4
Sněhurka
Through the crack to the terrace and by the East edge to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Sněhurka
From the North to the block at the South face and a jump to the ledge in the South face.… Rock Climbing
5
Sněhurka
By the face to the left of the "West Crack" directly into the gully and by it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sněhurka
By the South face over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Sněhurka
By the SW edge over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sněhurka
Through a wide V-crack to the terrace and by the V-edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sněhurka
From the gorge between the block and the South face to the right, behind the SE edge into… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kobylka
In the left part of the north face over 2 pitons to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Kobylka
Through the north face to the left of the route „Vesmírná odysea“ (Space Odyssey) via 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kobylka
Ascent via an overhang, over slings and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kobylka
Through the left part of the valley wall via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Kobylka
Through the middle of the north face via 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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