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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Vyhlídka
From the NE, through the chimney in the large corner, higher up through a crawl to the… Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídka
In the large recess, up the wall and later along the arête to K. Through a wide crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Romantická
Along the edge directly to the hourglass and further to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Romantická
Up the center of the valley wall for about 5 m, right to the edge (slings) and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Romantická
From the massif, a fall over the chimney and briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Romantická
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Romantická
Via a crack in the W wall to a ledge to K and to the right via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Parlament
In the right part of the west face via a corner notch (loops) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
7
Parlament
Through the middle of the west face along cracks over 2 K and a prominent arête into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Psí masiv
In the left part of the west face, to the left of the route "Bejšina cesta" via an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Psí masiv
In the left part of the south face, the crack entry is shared with the route "Míša's Way"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8-/8
Psí masiv
In the middle of the south face, to the left of the route "Jarda doesn't take drugs", a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Větrná bába
Left part of the southwest face over 1st K to the balcony (BH) and along the edge to 2 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dědek
Along the south ridge to K and higher up the face slightly left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dědek
Left part of the south face to the crack (clock). Through it and higher to the right up a… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Cestmistr
Chimney in the northwest face to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6
Cestmistr
Left in the northwest face, to the left of the chimney, up the face to the 1st K, further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8
Cestmistr
Southwest ridge via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Cestmistr
Wide crack in the southwest face via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Cestmistr
In the southwest face near the edge via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4
Traťmistr
Center of the north face to the top. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5
Chárova věž
Through the right part of the south wall upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Šmudla
Along the North wall over K to the ledge and upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Šmudla
Through the left part of the S wall directly upwards. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
5
Šmudla
Along the SE edge over K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Kejchal
To the right of the route "Northern Crack" by opposition against Prófa to K and slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Šmudla
In the right part of the N wall along a crack to the ledge and diagonally left upwards. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
2
Šmudla
From the SW along the notch diagonally left to the ledge and diagonally left upwards. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Šmudla
Along the SW wall to the ledge and diagonally left upwards. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
7
Kejchal
Through the left part of the S wall to K, left onto the edge and along it upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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