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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7/7+
Kobylka
Through the middle of the north face via 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kobylka
To the right from the fore-rock via a small pillar to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5
Kobylka
Through the valley chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
7
Kobylka
In the right part of the valley wall to the bolt and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Kobylka
Traverse from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Smrtihlav
Through a receding crack to the right in the massif to the top. "The route leads to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Smrtihlav
Through the middle of the long wall via 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Rákoska
Through the upper chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7
Kantor
Up the crack in the middle of the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring, to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Kantor
Up the corner crack to the 1st ring. Left to the edge to the 2nd ring, up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Kantor
Up the wall to the left of the corner crack to the ring and further to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Kantor
Through the chimney and along the edge via the ring to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
První věžička
Directly up the middle of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
První věžička
Directly below the abseil ring to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kantor
Up the right side wall to the 1st ring, up the wall along the edge to the 2nd ring and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
První věžička
Via the right part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
První věžička
Up the middle of the valley wall to the ring and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
První věžička
Up the southwest edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
První věžička
Up the wall to the left of the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
První věžička
Up the middle of the valley wall below a short crack, over an inclined ledge (knot) to… Rock Climbing
7
Druhá
From the left ledge in the north face, up the wall to the ring, through the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
První věžička
Directly up the southeast edge to the top. Rock Climbing
1
První věžička
Via the left part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Druhá
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5
Druhá
In the north face, right to K. Right onto a step, up a crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Druhá
Up the valley wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
5
Druhá
Up the middle of the valley wall, left onto the edge and up it. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
5
Druhá
In the south face, left to the edge to K. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
1
Druhá
From the massif up. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
5
Druhá
Up the middle of the south face to K and up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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