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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Apač
From the large ledge (belay), up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Apač
From the valley side, to the right through a crack to K. Further up the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Apač
Through the corner up to the overgrown ledge (belay). Up the small pillar to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Apač
From the base of the tower, via the corner and higher traverse into a hole to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vejminek
Directly over the overhang to 1st K of the original route and up it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7
Žlutá stěna
Start by chimney at the left edge of the wall into a large hole. Right to the 1st K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Žlutá stěna
Through the middle of the wall over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Žlutá stěna
Right in the valley's northwest wall via a slanted crack to the 1st K. Above the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Žlutá stěna
From the plateau below the rocks, along the edge to the balcony. Along the edge to K and… Rock Climbing
7
Žlutá stěna
Along the wall at the edge over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žlutá stěna
By crack in NW wall n. t. Rock Climbing
9
Žlutá stěna
From the 1st K of the "Engineer's Route" right along the wall to the 2nd K and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Žlutá stěna
In the western (valley) edge by a widening crack n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Mezistěna
By the crack from the north n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Žlutá stěna
By chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Mezistěna
Along the edge over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mezistěna
Through the middle of the wall by the right crack to the saddle and by another crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mezistěna
From the saddle right to K and through the depression n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mezistěna
Along the right overhanging edge to K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mezistěna
By the left crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Botanika
To the left on the wall via a small crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Botanika
To the left in the wall by chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Botanika
Right of the "Normal Route" wall "Na mlatě" with a sharp edge to K and n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Botanika
Through the left corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Botanika
Completely to the right on the wall to a step, to K and via the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Botanika
Via a crack through the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Botanika
Via the right crack to its end. Via the wall diagonally right to K and further to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Botanika
In the right part of the wall via a corner to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Mlynář
Completely to the left from a deep corner via an overhanging crack and higher up along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mlynář
To the left of the chimney that divides the wall, along the edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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