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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Palcát
From the balcony directly upwards further up. Rock Climbing
5
Palcát
To the right of the "Plateau Crack" directly to the abseiling K and further up. Rock Climbing
6-
Palcát
Up through the center of the NW face to K and slightly left further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Palcát
Up through the center of the NW face, right to the edge and up to K. Traverse to the SW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Palcát
Directly up the West ridge to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Palcát
From K left and further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Palcát
Start "Plateau Crack", traverse left to the platform, left into the chimney and up it n.… Rock Climbing
2
Palcát
Up the plateau crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Palcát
In the left part of the plateau wall towards the hourglasses and directly up n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Palcát
From the right lower edge of the SW face diagonally left into the center of the face to K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mužík
To the left in the valley wall via the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Mužík
Below the north wall of "Holey Head" along the ledge to the right (protection), over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Mužík
From the ledge at "Holey Head" a jump and traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Mužík
Along the right valley edge to K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mužík
Up the middle of the valley wall via a wide crack to K and then up the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vokurka
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vokurka
Start in the south face, traverse left to the edge and over iron holds to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vokurka
From the north edge to the right to the crack, along it to K and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vokurka
Via the SE edge over the "Old Way" to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vokurka
Via a traverse between M and the tower to the fore-rock, step into the east face and… Rock Climbing
6-
Vokurka
Via the west edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vokurka
Up the chimney, traverse left and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dobrý bratr
From "Zlý bratr" (Evil Brother) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Zlý bratr
From the saddle between Dobrý bratr and the tower wall to the platform to K and by crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kormidelník
Up the left edge of the narrow pillar to the balcony at K. Along the edge into the notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kormidelník
Up the left chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kormidelník
Up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kormidelník
Up the crack in the middle of the narrow pillar's face to 1st K, slightly right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kormidelník
By hand crack between the wall and the adjacent pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kormidelník
In the SW edge via a short crack to 1st K. Up the wall along the edge to the balcony at… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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