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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Kormidelník
In the SW edge via a short crack to 1st K. Up the wall along the edge to the balcony at… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kormidelník
Left half of the south face over 2 K (pitons/bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kormidelník
Up the chimney until below the overhanging crack and via it to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kormidelník
From the inner space between "Lodivod" (Pilot) and "Kormidelník" (Helmsman) via a crack… Rock Climbing
6
Kormidelník
Via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kormidelník
At the point where the walls of "Kormidelník" (Helmsman) and "Lodivod" (Pilot) are… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kormidelník
In the right part of the south face, a short crack over iron holds to 1st K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Lodivod
Center of the west face over 2 K (pitons/bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lodivod
Southwest overhanging wall over 2 K (pitons/bolts) further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lodivod
Start via the route "Main Crack" to the ledge, then diagonally left along it and up to K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Lodivod
Between the massifs "Kormidelník" (Helmsman) and "Lodivod" (Pilot) diagonally right to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Lodivod
Wide crack through the center of the south face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Lodivod
Right half of the south face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vrak
Chimney in the left part of the massif, directly from the bivouac, to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vrak
Right of the hikers' bivouac via an overhanging crack, breaking left higher up, to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Vrak
Center of the north face through a crack, which is interrupted by ledges to K. Further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vrak
Right in the north face via a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Vrak
Center of the wall to the ledge, further to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vrak
Right of the left edge to the ledge and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vrak
Right along the edge to the ledge and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Koráb
Wide crack to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Koráb
Along the edge to K and over the bellies (bulges) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Koráb
Up the wall through a large hole to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sušická věž
From the SE edge, traverse right to the bolt, right around the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Manželská věž
From the NE corner to the adjacent balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Manželská věž
Up the crack on the left in the northern face to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Manželská věž
Up a thin crack near the edge left of the chimney to the 1st bolt. Up to a ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Manželská věž
Through the center of the northern face to the 1st bolt, then up and along the thin crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Manželská věž
Along the northern edge over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Manželská věž
At the junction of the towers, "Liberec Tower" and "Karel's Stone", up a wide chimney and… Rock Climbing

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