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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Druhá
Up the middle of the south face to K and up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2
Druhá
Up the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4
Sporný masív
Up a wide crack to K and (new route). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7
Sporný masív
Up the left part of the wall over 2 K (new route). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Sporný masív
Up a shallow crack to K and (new route). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Sporný masív
In the right part of the wall, up an overhanging wall over 2 K (new route). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Cimbuří
In the NW wall, left onto the edge step and up it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Cimbuří
Up the right part of the north face via a small pillar and wall to the 1st K, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Cimbuří
From the fore-rock of the valley wall, up a corner to the rib and directly up. Rock Climbing
5
Sporný masív
Up the right edge over K (new route). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Cimbuří
From the valley terrace up the middle of the wall to K and up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Cimbuří
Up the middle of the SE wall over K directly up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Cimbuří
Diagonally right up the valley wall and through the chimney. Rock Climbing
4
Cimbuří
Up the SE edge towards the clock, traverse left and up. Rock Climbing
5
Cimbuří
Up the SW edge towards the clock and over the rocking stone. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Cimbuří
Up the wall to the right of the route "Hairline Crack" to K and directly up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Cimbuří
Directly up the fall line of K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Cimbuří
Through the chimney and the left part of the wall. Rock Climbing
7
Cimbuří
Through the crack in the left part of the plateau wall to K and up. Rock Climbing
6
Památka Venci Šatánka
In the left part of the valley wall through the crack over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Cimbuří
To the right of the chimney, up a narrow overhanging crack and wall. Rock Climbing
5
Cimbuří
Completely to the right, in the upper wall, along the rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Památka Venci Šatánka
Along the edge through the hole to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Památka Venci Šatánka
Left of the route "Organist's Revenge" up the wall over 2 K into the small crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Památka Venci Šatánka
Up the wall over small cracks to K, under the overhang and right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Památka Venci Šatánka
Over the ledges to the 1st K, via a gully to the balcony and over the 2nd K into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Břízová stěna
Through the first part of the wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Otesánek
Briefly via the left crack, traverse right, then straight through the crack and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Otesánek
In the center of the wall via steps to K and right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Otesánek
From the right part of the massif, left through the crack and around the tree from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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