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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Jezevec
Start in the right part of the north face, via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Jezevec
Right of the route "Chimney" along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Zlaté jablko
In the right part of the valley wall over the overhang onto the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Žezlo
From the W side up the wall to the ledge and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Žezlo
Start in the middle of the wall from the hiking trail into the overhanging crack, follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Čintamani a ptáci
Right of the route "Devil's Saddle" up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
9
Dlouhá stěna
About 3 m right of the route "Black Wall" up the wall past 2 bolts, then slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Palcát a stěna palcátu
Through a sloping crack in the left part of the north wall n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Buková stěna
From the start of the route 'Nervousness Rises' from the chimney left along ledges to a… Rock Climbing
5
Beškovský kostelík
Up the left falcon-like crack in the valley wall to the saddle, by friction and right up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Beškovský kostelík
Up the narrow South wall directly to K of the route "Night of Churches" to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Beškovský kostelík
From the right into the narrow South wall to K. Along the rounded edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Loupežníkův pes
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Loupežníkův pes
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Patník
In the massif, descend through the gully and traverse to the ledge, easily to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Patník
Left of the NW edge (clock) over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Patník
From the massif by a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Patník
Through the wide crack between the massif and the tower to the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Věž K.S.B..
Through the Falcon crack in the valley wall to the end, left over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Patník
Through the center of the S wall along the cracks and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Věž K.S.B..
Up the Northeast face directly to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Věž K.S.B..
Over the S edge to the left above the overhang and up the SW face. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Zoubek
To the right along the E edge and then up the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Zoubek
Up the West edge. Rock Climbing
5
Zoubek
Through the center of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zoubek
Up the North face on the right. Rock Climbing
5
Svatební věž
From the pitons, left into the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Patlan
In the plateau face to the fore-rock and through the middle of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Patlan
All the way to the right in the valley wall via a shallow corner (or over the bulges to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vydlabanec
In the right part of the plateau face, diagonally right to the pitons and up the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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