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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Orel
Step over from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Orlí hnízdo
By stepping over from the massif or via the "Northwest Notch" route and left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Orel
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Orlí hnízdo
Through the left valley chimney under the overhang, traverse left to K. Up the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Orlí hnízdo
Through the left valley chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Orlí hnízdo
Up the right part of the S wall over the overhang to the bolt. Up to the bolt of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Orlí hnízdo
In the valley wall up to the bottom of the right chimney (loop), over the overhang into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Orlí hnízdo
In the chimney between M and the tower, traverse from the ledge into the chimney between… Rock Climbing
7
Orlí hnízdo
Via the chimney from S to the prominent shelf, traverse and left up the S wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Orlí hnízdo
From the massif, traverse into the left part of the wall and briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Orlí hnízdo
From the massif to the sloping boulder between the peaks. Rock Climbing
5
Fena
Up the wall right of the crack to the balcony and to the bolt. Traverse right around the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vyžle
From the SE from the fore-rock via a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Vyžle
From the base of the boulder by the SE wall traverse right to the N edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vyžle
Via the NW wall over the overhang directly into the small cave, diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Fena
From the E chimney traverse right to the N edge and over the bolt to the summit.
3
Fena
Entry via the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Fena
From the massif to the corner of the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Fena
From the plateau side traverse left into the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Fena
In the left part of the south face to the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Fena
Entry via the valley crack diagonally right to the balcony, along the crack to the bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
1
Fena
From the elongated boulder to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Fena
From the massif to the southeast corner of the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Fena
Along the edge and wall left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Fena
From the southeast edge along the ledge left to the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Fena
Via the crack from the east to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
5
Stodolník
Left of the route "Remembrance of Mirek Voráček" via a crack to the ledge, along it right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Fena
Via the East chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5
Stodolník
Along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Stodolník
In the left part of the valley (S) wall by a crack (knot), traverse right to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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