Part of Kraví rokle, Hlaváč has 5 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 5. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.
Rules
Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps authority OP CHKO Kokořínsko1b
- The permit applies to free climbing, ice climbing, dry tooling, bouldering, and via ferrata are not allowed. - Trees and vegetation cover of the rocks must not be removed. Do not damage the surface of the rock. - RP (Redpoint) and OS (Onsight) are prohibited if the rope rubs, extend the belay on the rock so that the edge does not rub. - Magnesium and metal belay devices are prohibited. - It is forbidden to abseil from trees and shrubs, climbing on rocks soaked with water, snow-covered, and icy. - Climbing only from below, max. 5 team members, TOP ROPE is prohibited. 7aNature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round in designated polygons. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps, Conservation Authority Kokořínsko Protected Landscape Area.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
- Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- No abseiling from trees or bushes.
- No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
- The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Údolní cesta
From E through the gully to the ledge in the valley wall, up the wall from the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zkrácená varianta
From W along the ledge left into the valley wall, up to the Piton via the original route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Plazivá varianta
In the center of the valley wall, via overhanging crack to the platform, over the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Západní cesta
From W to the ledge of the "Normal Route", from there diagonally right above the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Normální cesta
From W diagonally left into the valley wall, along the ledge left to the crack, up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay