Part of Ptačí rokle, Hlaváček has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5 to 8. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall.
Rules
Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps authority OP CHKO Kokořínsko1b
- The permit applies to free climbing, ice climbing, dry tooling, bouldering, and via ferrata are not allowed. - Trees and vegetation cover of the rocks must not be removed. Do not damage the surface of the rock. - RP (Redpoint) and OS (Onsight) are prohibited if the rope rubs, extend the belay on the rock so that the edge does not rub. - Magnesium and metal belay devices are prohibited. - It is forbidden to abseil from trees and shrubs, climbing on rocks soaked with water, snow-covered, and icy. - Climbing only from below, max. 5 team members, TOP ROPE is prohibited. 7aNature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round in designated polygons. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2020, maps, Conservation Authority Kokořínsko Protected Landscape Area.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
- Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- No abseiling from trees or bushes.
- No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
- The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Varianta Útěk z vězení
From the anchor (K) of the original route, directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Žalářní zeď
Through the middle of the NE face directly to the anchor (K). Right to the crack, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Východní hrana
Via the eastern edge over the anchor (K) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Luftwaffe
Right of the 'Valley Route' through the middle of the face to the anchor (K) and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Velikonoční cesta
In the right part of the SE face diagonally left to the anchor (K), to the terrace and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Přímá varianta
Via the 'Black Variant' to the anchor (K), directly upwards and via the right edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nová cesta
In the left part of the upper (SE) face diagonally left to the anchor (K), by stepping… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Údolní cesta
Via the left or right crack onto the pillar and to the anchor (K), upwards into the notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Černá varianta
Left of the original route, via a depression to the anchor (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay