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Climbing at Hlavy blíženců

17 routes
4-–7-/7 grades

Part of Rájecké údolí, Hlavy blíženců has 17 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4- to 7-/7. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Overhang.

Rules

Nature protection: Tower and surroundings closed from February 22 to June 30 due to peregrine falcon nesting.

OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.

This sector is closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.

Ostříží stěny and the Rájec valley are closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80620, 14.01701

4-
Hlavy blíženců
From the NE via the chimney between the towers, higher up via the Old Path n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavy blíženců
From the block at the W edge directly up the edge (K, hourglasses) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hlavy blíženců
Up the SW wall to K, higher onto the ledge to large hourglasses. Over the overhang into… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavy blíženců
After the drop, up the center of the SW wall to the plateau. Via the Old Path n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Hlavy blíženců
Up the center of the SW wall of the NW summit over K directly into the "Wall Variant" Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hlavy blíženců
Left of the start of the "Methodical Route" to the 1st K, up the wall to the 2nd K and… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavy blíženců
From the massive block SW of the NW tower, drop into the SW wall. Traverse diagonally… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavy blíženců
From the SW via the chimney between the towers, higher up via the crack of the Valley… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavy blíženců
Up the center of the NE wall to K, from there left, higher right (hourglasses), right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hlavy blíženců
In the SE wall obliquely left under the overhang, over it to the S edge and up the crack… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hlavy blíženců
Left of the right valley edge via an overhang to the 1st BH, up the wall (hourglasses,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Hlavy blíženců
Overhanging crack along the E edge to the plateau and via the Old Path n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavy blíženců
Up the S edge directly to the plateau and via the Old Path n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavy blíženců
Along the upper E edge up the wall over K directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavy blíženců
Via the Old Path to the end of the crack, right behind the edge onto a sloping ledge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavy blíženců
Up the NE wall to the 1st K. Up the wall via the "Old Path" traverse to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hlavy blíženců
Up the crack in the left part of the NW wall to its end. Traverse left into the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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