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Climbing at Holštejn

250 routes
5 areas
3–12- grades

Holštejn in the Moravian Karst offers 250 routes in five sectors – Lidomorna, Vaňousovy díry, V buči, Nad holštejnskou jeskyní and Stará rasovna. Its overhanging and vertical limestone walls are among the hardest climbing in the Czech Republic; grades from 3 to 12-.

Part of Moravian Karst, Holštejn has 250 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 12-. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

OVK: in technical ascents of freely climbed routes, only removable protection can be used; it is forbidden to use pitons, bolts, spits, etc. installed with a hammer Nature protection: - climbers are obliged not to leave protection in the routes after completing the ascent

Nature protection: Climbing is prohibited on some rocks from January 1st to June 30th. Nature Protection Document: Decision 2016, Nature Protection authority: CHKO Moravský Kras.

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

Parking

49.40261, 16.77783

10-
Lidomorna
Original classification V A3, free T. Pilka RK, 1987 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+
Lidomorna
Up the crack to the right of the Charles Darwin route, over the overhang and continuously… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
8+
Lidomorna
Starting variation for the Noční spára variation directly along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
11-
Lidomorna
Up the middle of the pillar, over the overhang to the Evoluce rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Lidomorna
Up the distinct crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
10
Lidomorna
Up the smooth wall to the right and through the corner into the overhang and to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Lidomorna
The route starts like Nedokončená, at the second bolt (which is quite difficult to clip… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
Up the technical slab via small holds diagonally right to Noční spára and then follow it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+/10-
Lidomorna
RP P. Weisser, 1986 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Lidomorna
Up the vertical wall to the belay. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8-
Lidomorna
Through the technical corner to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Lidomorna
Up the pillar to the right of the corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5+
Lidomorna
Through the corner and around the tree. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5+
Lidomorna
Up the wall to the belay. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
?
Lidomorna
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Lidomorna
Original classification IV A0 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5-
Lidomorna
Through the corner and then along the edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8
Lidomorna
Along the edge to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Lidomorna
Along the edge to the right of Krucifix. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Lidomorna
Through the corner to the right of Via Sacra. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
8-
Stará rasovna
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Lidomorna
Start on the edge and up a short overhanging wall to the ledge to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Lidomorna
To the left of Krucifix via a smooth wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Stará rasovna
Rock Climbing
6+
Stará rasovna
Up the center of the wall via a prominent fault. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
8-
Stará rasovna
Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Stará rasovna
Rock Climbing
?
V buči
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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