Part of 16. U hranic, Hraniční jehla has 19 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10-/10. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
4+
Přepad
Left from the massif, 4m descent. From a standing position, overthrow to the NE edge. Via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Cesta pašeráků
In the right part of the plateau wall, diagonally right to the edge, traverse right all… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Ručkovací varianta
Up the center of the plateau wall to a ledge and along it hand-over-hand to the left into… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Stará cesta
Descent from the massif to the saddle and up the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Cesta bez stavidla
Left on the plateau wall, via a squeeze chimney between the tower and the massif over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Inside Joke
From the upper balcony in the corner between Hraniční jehla and Klopotská stěna, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Jezerní básníci
Left of the N route 'Jezerní stěna' (Lake Wall), up the wall over 3 K to the ring of … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Žbluňk!
From the dam of the small lake along the edge over 6 K and BH to a large balcony. Freely… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Pool Party
From the start of the 'Žbluňk' route, traverse right above the water and up the cracked… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Jezerní stěna
Start on the W bank of the small lake, up the left chimney to the balcony below the last… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10-/10
Brazil
Left of the 'Žbluňk' route up the wall, over the overhang and along the edge (6 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Imigrační vlna
Up the center of the valley wall directly over 3 BH below the overhang. From the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Imigrační vlna direkt
From the 5th BH of the 'Imigrační vlna' (Immigration Wave) route, up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Bez hranic
Up the center of the E wall to K. Left and straight over 4 BH, higher over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Šprotoplazma
From the highest point of the gorge on the S side, from the ledge left of the SE pillar,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Rezavá kudla
Left on the valley side (from SE) from the small pillar with an overthrow to the 1st BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Magnolia
Start completely from the left of the massif from the highest point of the gorge up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Cvičitelská cesta
Start at the base of the valley (E) wall. Along the ledge under the overhang, traverse… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
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