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Climbing at Jánusova hlava

12 routes
5–7+/8- grades

Part of Malé stěny, Jánusova hlava has 12 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5 to 7+/8-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

- Do not remove stones, vegetation and otherwise interfere with vegetation on the rocks - Do not disturb nesting birds, use marked tourist routes and access paths to access the rocks - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight - Prohibition of using magnesium and other chemical agents - Prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of the rocks, especially by improper handling of the rope, using metal belay devices, etc. - First ascents are prohibited

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round, marked routes are permanently prohibited. Nature Protection Documents: PR Tiské stěny-OOP 2022-2027, Prohibited routes, Rocks with the possibility of completing first ascents, OP CHKO Labské Pískovce authority.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.78582, 14.02828

5
Jánusova hlava
Through the center of the S face upwards and then left into the hole near the edge. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jánusova hlava
From K right upwards to another hole and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Jánusova hlava
From the overhang via 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Jánusova hlava
Through the center of the S face via dK (added by the area manager in 1987) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jánusova hlava
In the NE face diagonally left to K. Slightly overhanging wall to the crack and n. v. it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jánusova hlava
In the right part of the SE face into the overhanging crack, then to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jánusova hlava
Start via the Old Road route, then to the 1st K, from it diagonally right upwards to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Jánusova hlava
In the right part of the S face via 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jánusova hlava
In the left part of the N face upwards to K. From it left into the shallow gully and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Jánusova hlava
From the 1st K of the Veselá taškařice route upwards diagonally left to the 2nd K and n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jánusova hlava
From the 2nd K through the hole to the S face, diagonally right to the edge and n. v. it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jánusova hlava
From the right part of the N face into a large hole (clock). Up into the shallow gully,… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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