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Climbing at South Moravia

2688 routes
6 areas
1–12 grades

South Moravia covers crags from the Drahany Highlands and the Moravian Karst through the Brno area down to the Znojmo region and Pálava on the Austrian border. The most important is the Moravian Karst north of Brno near Blansko – a limestone protected landscape area of about 92 km² with around 1,100 caves and gorges, five of them open to the public; the best known are the Punkva Caves, discovered by Karel Absolon, and the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, where the Punkva river disappears underground. In the south rise the limestone Pavlov Hills in the Pálava Protected Landscape Area (since 19 March 1976, 83 km², highest point Děvín at 550 m), a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1986, extended in 2003 to include the Lednice–Valtice Cultural Landscape.

The character of the climbing changes with the rock: in the Moravian Karst it is overhanging and vertical limestone – Holštejn is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic, with slippery limestone in places, polished easier routes and long run-outs. Around Brno and in the Drahany Highlands sport climbing on walls and quarries dominates, in the Znojmo area along the Jevišovka, Dyje and Jihlava valleys (Jevišovice and Křižanov Uplands) trad climbing with your own gear, often in the shade, and on Pálava climbing in the Trůn and Martinka groups. Most crags lie in protected areas, so check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the protected-area administrations before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, South Moravia has 2688 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

11+
Býčí skála
From the Panychida start hold upwards. At the 2nd bolt from the left, over Kondor's bolt,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
11+
Býčí skála
Start in the corner left of Panychida, then slightly left. Same finish as Rodeo (and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10-
Býčí skála
The route leads from the cave Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-
Býčí skála
Slab to the right of Pedro's Spruce. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Býčí skála
Original classification V A2, RP T. Pilka, 1986
5
Býčí skála
Start left of the Rel Cyborg route to the ledge, diagonally down left around Pedro's… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
9+
Býčí skála
Slab to the right of Top Gun. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Býčí skála
At the belay in the slab, it branches off diagonally to the left. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
10
Býčí skála
Start at the entrance to Byci skala cave, up and diagonally right to the bolt with a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
10-
Býčí skála
Original classification V+ A3, RP T. Pilka, 1987 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Býčí skála
Start from the balcony 5 meters left of the Pedro's Spruce belay. Straight over the first… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Býčí skála
Chimney on the left side of the central slab. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7-
Býčí skála
Through the slab in the left part nv (slightly to the right). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
4
Býčí skála
Technical route up the middle of the smooth slab, above the overhang (belay) and then…
5-
Býčí skála
To the right of the edge through a rock fault. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Býčí skála
Through a prominent gully. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7+
Kostelík
Description missing. The route leads from the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Býčí skála
Completely to the left along a prominent edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6-
Kostelík
To the right of the Rockquiem route with a boulder start slightly to the right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Kostelík
To the right of Krasový Hnusák, through the hollow above the hole and slightly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Kostelík
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
7-
Kostelík
Start 3 meters to the right of the Zimní route. Start on the overhang. Edge under a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
0
Kostelík
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Kostelík
Along the bolts all the way up under the cave ceiling. The belay is equipped with a bell …
6-
Kostelík
Description missing. The route leads from the cave. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Kostelík
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+
Kostelík
Climb to NHR to the ring above the Krasový hnusák belay. To the Hodinky rappel anchor at… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Kostelík
7-
Kostelík
Along the pillar closely past the bolts nv. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Kostelík
Along the crack and pedestal nv. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5

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